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Hoopmaking Tools · Hardware · Supplies · Hoopmakers University Tutorials
Everything you need
Everything you need
to build your first hoop.
Tubing is just the beginning. A clean, professional hoop starts with the right tools — a pipe cutter that makes a true square cut, a riveter that seats cleanly every time, and the connectors that let a hoop collapse for travel. All tools are stocked and ready to ship from Boulder, Colorado. Every tool on this page has a corresponding free tutorial in Hoopmakers University — links below.
01
Measure
Calculate your hoop circumference from desired OD
Tool: Measuring Tape
02
Cut
Make a clean square cut through the tubing wall
Tool: Pipe Cutter
03
Connect
Insert the connector and join both ends into a circle
Tool: Insert + Snap Button
04
Rivet
Secure the insert to the tubing with an aluminum rivet
Tool: Riveter + Rivets
05
Grip
Add wax or grip tape for traction and feel
Tool: Hoop Wax
What’s on This Page
Every tool. Explained.
PVC Pipe Cutter
Step 02 — Cut
A ratcheted pipe cutter designed specifically for cutting polypro, HDPE, and PE tubing. Cuts up to 1.25” OD in a single smooth action — no saw, no blade, no mess. The ratcheting mechanism means you apply steady pressure in stages rather than one hard squeeze, producing a consistently square, burr-free cut every time. This is the single most important tool in your kit — a poor cut makes a poor connection.
◆ Watch the cutting tutorial in Hoopmakers University before your first make, especially for Glossy Polypro and Goldilocks tubing.
Riveter
Step 04 — Rivet
A hand riveter sized for the 1/8” aluminum rivets used in hoopmaking. Drives rivets cleanly through tubing and insert material in a single squeeze. Securing the insert with a rivet on one side is what makes the connection stable under the dynamic forces of hoop movement — without a rivet, the insert can walk out of position over time. Works with both the solid-rivet and snap-button connection methods.
◆ One rivet per hoop is standard. Drill your rivet hole before inserting the snap button end so the holes align cleanly.
Aluminum Rivets
Step 04 — Rivet — Consumable
Hoopologie stocks US-made 1/8” aluminum rivets — not the imported hardware-store variety that snaps off mid-set and leaves the mandrel jammed in the tool. These are sourced specifically for hoopmaking and are Hoopologie’s number-one recommended fastener. One rivet secures the insert material to the fixed end of the hoop; the snap button handles the collapsible end.
◆ Order a handful extra — rivets are cheap and running out mid-session is maddening. Keep a spare pack in your kit.
Snap Buttons & Rivets
Step 03 — Connect
Snap buttons (also called push buttons or spring clips) are what make a hoop collapsible for travel and shipping. The button is pressed into the connector/insert material so that it clicks into a drilled hole in the tubing on one side, allowing the hoop to be collapsed flat and re-opened repeatedly. Available in sizes matched to each tubing OD: small for 5/8” (1/2” connector), large for 3/4” (5/8” connector).
◆ Use snap buttons in conjunction with rivets — rivets on the fixed side, snap buttons on the collapsible side. Never snap-button both ends.
Polycarbonate Inserts
Step 03 — Connect
Polycarbonate (polycarb) inserts are short rigid connectors (~1.65” long) that fit inside the tubing to join both ends into a circle. They are stronger and lighter than standard polypro inserts and are the recommended connector for Goldilocks (11/16”) tubing and all Glossy Polypro lines. They fit snugly — use warm water or mild heat to ease insertion if needed. Available for 1/2” ID tubing (fits 5/8” and 11/16” OD).
◆ Polycarb connectors loosen slightly with use. If they feel very tight on the first make, this is normal — work them gently and they’ll seat properly.
Hoop Wax
Step 05 — Grip — Optional
A natural beeswax grip aid for bare (untaped) polypro and HDPE hoops. Rub directly onto the tubing surface to add traction without adding the weight or visual bulk of grip tape. Ideal for performance hoopers who want the clean look of a bare coloured hoop with improved contact. Easy to apply, easy to remove with a cloth and rubbing alcohol. Not suitable for hot weather — beeswax melts in high temperatures. Works best in warm to cold conditions.
◆ Apply a thin, even coat — less is more. Over-waxing can feel sticky rather than grippy and makes the hoop harder to do off-body tricks with.
Flexible Measuring Tape
Step 01 — Measure
A flexible tape measure is the foundation of every accurate hoop. You need it to calculate tubing length from desired hoop diameter: circumference = OD × π (3.14159). A 36” OD hoop requires approximately 113.1” of tubing; a 32” requires 100.5”. Measuring tape is also used to mark the cut point around the tubing so your cut line is perpendicular — essential for a flush, gap-free connection.
◆ Use our free Hoop Size Calculator to get exact footage per size before you cut.
Blades & Accessories
Supplementary Tools
Utility blades and accessory tools for fine-tuning connections — including deburring and smoothing any roughness on a cut end before inserting the connector. A clean, deburred cut end seats the polycarb insert more easily and creates a tighter, more professional-looking join. Especially useful when cutting Glossy Polypro or Goldilocks tubing, where the thicker wall can leave a heavier edge.
◆ Always deburr in warm conditions — cold polypro is more brittle and can chip rather than smooth cleanly.
Polypro Insert Material
Step 03 — Connect — Consumable
Standard clear polypro insert tubing used to join hoop ends. Approx. 4” of insert is included free with every tubing order, but dedicated insert packs let you build multiple hoops from a single stock. Match insert OD to tubing ID: 1/2” insert for 5/8” or 11/16” tubing; 5/8” insert for 3/4”; 3/4” insert for 7/8”. Polycarb inserts are recommended for Goldilocks.
◆ Keep a range of insert sizes if you work across multiple tubing diameters — they’re cheap and running out delays your whole build session.
Hoopmakers University — Free Tutorial Library
Watch before you build.
Watch before you build.
Free with every purchase.
Every tool on this page has a tutorial in Hoopmakers University — Hoopologie’s free on-demand video learning platform. From first cut to finished hoop. Click any card to watch.
Build Guide
From tubing to finished hoop.
From tubing to finished hoop.
Step by step.
1
Calculate your tubing length
Decide your hoop’s outer diameter (OD) and multiply by π (3.14159) to get the circumference — the exact length of tubing to cut. A 32” hoop = 100.5” of tubing. A 36” hoop = 113.1”. Use a flexible tape measure to mark this length along the outer surface of the tubing.
▶ Watch: How to Measure Tubing →
Measuring Tape
2
Make a clean square cut
Position the pipe cutter on your mark at a true right angle to the tubing. Apply steady ratcheting pressure — turn, squeeze, turn, squeeze — until the tubing separates cleanly. The cut end should be perfectly flat with no angle, crack, or burr. For Glossy Polypro and Goldilocks tubing, room-temperature cutting is essential.
▶ Watch: Hoop Making Tools Explained →
Pipe Cutter
3
Insert the connector and form the circle
Push the insert (polycarb or standard) halfway into one cut end of the tubing. Bring the two ends of the tubing together, pressing the open end over the exposed insert to form a circle. Check that the join is flush on all sides with no gap or step. A gap means either the tubing was cut at an angle or the insert isn’t centred.
▶ Watch: Perfect Connection Tutorial →
Polycarb Insert
4
Drill and rivet the fixed side
Using a drill with a bit matched to your rivet diameter (typically 1/8”), drill through both the tubing wall and the insert on the fixed (non-collapsible) side of the hoop — about 1” from the join. Load the rivet into the riveter, insert the rivet tip through the hole, and squeeze the riveter handles until the rivet sets with a click and the mandrel snaps off cleanly.
▶ Watch: Riveting Technique →
Riveter + Rivets
5
Install the snap button on the collapsible side
Drill a slightly larger hole through the tubing on the collapsible side (opposite the rivet). Thread the snap button into the insert from the inside, pressing it toward the hole until the button pops through. When you press the button in, the tubing end should pull free of the insert — and when released, click back into place. This is what makes the hoop collapsible for travel.
▶ Watch: Snap Button Install →
Snap Button
6
Add grip or tape (optional)
For bare hoops, rub a thin, even coat of hoop wax onto the tubing for natural traction — especially helpful on bare polypro for on-body hooping. For taped hoops, begin your tape application at the connection joint to conceal the rivet and create a clean starting point. Apply grip tape first if you want traction under your decorative tape.
▶ Browse Full Tutorial Library →
Hoop Wax / Tape
Common Questions
Tools & hardware, answered.
Do I need all of these tools to make my first hoop?
For a basic single hoop build you need: a pipe cutter, a riveter, rivets, a snap button, an insert, and a measuring tape. The hoop wax is optional but recommended for bare polypro hoops. Blades and deburring tools are helpful but not essential for your first make. If you order tubing with the hardware upgrade option, inserts, rivets, and snap buttons are already included — add a pipe cutter and riveter and you’re ready.
What’s the difference between a rivet and a snap button?
Rivets permanently fix the insert material to one end of the hoop — once set, that side cannot be disassembled without destroying the rivet. Snap buttons secure the other side of the insert with a spring-loaded mechanism that can be pressed in to release the hoop end for collapse. Together they create a hoop that holds its circle during use but can be flattened for travel or shipping. Never use snap buttons on both ends — the hoop won’t hold its shape reliably.
Which snap button size do I need?
Snap button size is matched to your insert material and tubing OD: Small snap buttons fit 1/2” insert material, which goes inside 5/8” OD and 11/16” Goldilocks tubing. Large snap buttons fit 5/8” insert material, which goes inside 3/4” OD tubing. If you order the hardware upgrade with your tubing, the correct button size is included automatically.
When should I use polycarb inserts instead of standard polypro inserts?
Polycarb (polycarbonate) inserts are strongly recommended for Goldilocks (11/16”) tubing and all Glossy Polypro lines (Stardust, Radioactive, Fusion). The thicker wall of Goldilocks and the modified formulation of Glossy Polypro means the connection point is under more stress than standard tubing — polycarb’s rigidity and strength distributes this load better than a polypro insert. For standard 5/8” and 3/4” polypro and HDPE, either insert type works well.
How do I access the Hoopmakers University videos?
Hoopmakers University is free and accessible to everyone at hoopmakers.hoopologie.com. No login required — just visit the site and browse the tutorial library. Links to specific tool-related videos are included throughout this page. Purchasing from Hoopologie also grants you access to the full platform including any member-only content.
Ready to build?
Watch first. Make second.
Every tool on this page has a free step-by-step tutorial in Hoopmakers University. Watch the cutting and connection videos before your first make and you’ll produce a professional-quality hoop first time.
Pipe CutterRatcheted, up to 1.25” OD
US-Made Rivets1/8” aluminum, no breakage
Free Video Tutorials6 courses in Hoopmakers University
Boulder, ColoradoHoopologie — Est. 2013
